When I first started out building gundams, nub removal was probably the first thing that bug me the most. No matter how carefully I try to shave out the nubs using art knifes, I still won’t get a clean cut and worse you’ll find the area looking different from the rest. Next step probably we might take is to sand nasty spot. Even after you go to grit 1000, that spot will still look different from the rest of the parts argh… won’t want my mech going to battle with nubs sticking out in the middle of the battle…the enemies will probably die laughing.
Well for this little experiment I’ll introduce you the tools of the trade
Materials
Cotton bulb, 3 yr old toothbrush, polishing compound,
test piece from 0 gundam (sry dude..) and spare spectacle cloth
Price included...
Sandpaper various grits 400, 600 and 1000. Bought from HAG at Sunshine Plaza
Experiment start!
Use the toothbrush to dust away after each sanding, makes the sanding job easier as less dust will interfere
Notice the sanded part still looks different from the other parts.
Apply magic cream to part with cotton bulb!
Notice the sanded part now looking similiar to the unsanded part
Magic cream 2!
After rubbing with fine compound
Comparing with the other leg. Left : original leg. Right : Polished with compound
A closer shot
Well the experiment was a success and I think it offers a nice way for people who just like their gunpla out of the box minus the nubs. It will be quite a nice alternative if you are just not in the mood to paint… hmm maybe can try on my MG Exia…
Till the next post!
shewsbury
August 6, 2009
So that’s how to completely erase the nub… I shall buy all those things the next time I go to Hobby Art Gallery… by the way why don’t you add a Chat Box on your blog…. get it for free from http://www.cbox.ws/
chubbybots
August 6, 2009
Ah thanks for tip. Will check it out haha. Hope the little guide was useful ^^
Evangelisque
August 7, 2009
Curious, do you buy the polishing cream from HAG as well? This is a great guide by the way, I don’t have money or space for painting and Gundam markers don’t always do the job well, so this is an awesome alternative.
Thanks for sharing!!
chubbybots
August 7, 2009
Well actually I got this from kovan ^^ hobby point. If HAG doesn’t carry I am sure M Workshop will carry this. Glad that the guide help. Happy building!
rockleelotus
August 20, 2009
this is an awesome guide to remove those annoying nubs ^^ i will have to try this when i get another kit, thanks for sharing!
chubbybots
August 20, 2009
No problem mate ^^.
T
August 20, 2009
Very very nice.
I’m going to try that on the next kit I build.
chubbybots
August 20, 2009
Haha glad the guide help ^^ happy building.
jojosochi
August 23, 2009
Wao! good Guild, i should try it, was looking solution to remove nuds, thanks man
chubbybots
August 23, 2009
Haha no prob dude ^^. Your painting skill even more power. Don’t think I can do FG like you did.
SpringAngeLs
August 31, 2009
Issit nid so much of polisher to clear the (nub)? Cuz saw u put a lot @@
chubbybots
August 31, 2009
Yep ^^. Actually I only use this method on areas that can be seen such as legs and shoulder armors. Best is you test it out and gauge from your own experience how much is needed. Cheers ^^
SpringAngeLs
September 2, 2009
Oh i see, thx for ur reply. I will try myself later on…
meimi132
September 2, 2009
OMG Thank you!!!! I do just like building em out the box!! I do wanna do the panels, I’ve got some markers on order, and I’m considering weathering stuff, but I don’t really wanna paint them, even if they are a bit shiney.
I think that polishing compound is something like what I used in resmat(woodwork) in high school. Made sanded plastic oh-so shiney!!
chubbybots
September 2, 2009
Haha no prob^^. After the flat coat you won’t see the difference. You can look up on my MG exia wip 3. Dry brushing is a nice little technique that is you can try for weathering.
JJ
September 17, 2009
where’d you get the sandpaper and how much is it? And also the price of the compounds thingy.
chubbybots
September 17, 2009
I got all these at hobby art gallery ^^. Its in sunshine plaza at bencoolen street first floor. Can’t miss it ^^. But price wise I am not too sure already. I bought these things some time back. You might want to check with them.
Marzz
September 23, 2009
I recently bought a polishing compound as well. But this one cost 12 bucks and there was no coarse or fine written on it. Does it work the same way? I bought this at HAG as well.
chubbybots
September 23, 2009
The one you bought was the finishing compound. Its actually used after using the coarse and fine compound. But I find it unnecessary to polish till finishing though for out of box builds.
Marzz
September 23, 2009
Ah… No wonder the results were not the same as urs… They did not have the coarse and fine in stock the other day, nvm, i will go check another day.
chubbybots
September 23, 2009
Actually there is one more shop at sunshine called M workshop. They should carry that too ^^
Syful
September 30, 2009
hmmmm…. thats taking awhile to make… is there any other simpler way?
chubbybots
September 30, 2009
I am afraid this is as simple as it gets if you don’t want to paint ^^; if not you can sand all the way till 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper.
Syful
September 30, 2009
I’m thinking of those nail files, it has the same sanding element, I’ll try it out, since I can’t afford much on the grit papers let alone buying the compound =.=’=
chubbybots
September 30, 2009
The nail files will do just fine ^^. Good luck on your kits!
Marzz
October 2, 2009
Just curious, if u use nail file, is polishing compound still required?
chubbybots
October 2, 2009
I can’t comment on that cos I never used a nail file before. Unless the nail file can polish to say 1500 to 2000 grit you can skip the compound if the scratches are not that deep ^^. Using the compound is just an alternative
I think the best way however to try it out and see for yourself which works best!
Syful
October 2, 2009
you can buy the nail file from Bodyshop, y’know, those rectangular block, with numbers on them?
chubbybots
October 2, 2009
Looks like i got to make a trip down there to take a look ^^. Thanks for the info
Syful
October 2, 2009
oh and use them according to numbers, i used the nail file block up till number 3, because if you use up to 4, it’ll become shiny, like shiny nails
Syful
October 2, 2009
yeah, and post it too… i wanna see your opinion on this
chubbybots
October 2, 2009
Sure thing ^^
Syful
October 9, 2009
so how did it go with the nail files?
chubbybots
October 9, 2009
I haven’t got a chance to get those files as of yet ^^. Will definitely let you know when I do.
bd77
October 9, 2009
Arrgh~!… Now only I know on how to remove the nubs properly… To think that using two grades of sandpaper is enough…
Never knew those polishing compound existed.
chubbybots
October 9, 2009
Actually if you use sandpaper till a higher grit like 1500 to 2000 should also be good enough ^^. Nubs are not so visible on camera
Originally these polishing compounds are used on painted surface to make it shine, but i read somewhere that it can also remove scratches so I tried it out and it works pretty nicely 
.
bd77
October 9, 2009
Thanks for the info.
Syful
October 11, 2009
hey~
I just wanna ask you something, when you combine (L+R) parts, there’s always a seam that can be split right? how do you cover that? with a putty? or something else?
chubbybots
October 11, 2009
To remove the seam you will need to use a plastic cement/ tamiya cement to melt the seam together. After that sand it down and the seam will be gone ^^.
eighteleven
October 11, 2009
Wow this guide is VERY helpful especially for those pesky nub marks on coloured foot. I always hated those nub marks…
now to try and experiment this on my…PG!! LOL
chubbybots
October 11, 2009
Haha thanks ^^. Good luck on your PG project and also for your exams
AstrayP03 (Zhe)
October 13, 2009
eh eh, where do you buy those stuff? the magic cream, i mean
chubbybots
October 13, 2009
I got my magic cream at Hobby point kovan ^^ I think most of the hobby shops should carry this
franklin
October 14, 2009
saw your tutorial and tried it. i only sanded the plastic with grit 400 and 600 and put the magic cream on, it worked pretty good actually. maybe i should try to sand with grit 1000.
your tip really saves my gundam 00!
thanks mate
chubbybots
October 14, 2009
Haha no problem. Its still better to sand to 1000, the difference is quite a lot! And thanks for your comment! Really happy to know my stuff helped you out
jojosochi
October 29, 2009
Hi, had try myself the technique, but i’m not using the tamiya sand paper, i just use a normal sand paper, which is availble at any department store.
Follow by 1000 > 1500 > 2000. after apply the compound it still look scratched on my part. any idea? i think i should try using the tamiya sand paper..
(i can’t get the compound you show on the pic in brunei T_T)
Syful
October 29, 2009
JoJo, i found the compound cream at Guan Hock Lee (Tungku Link) you know? the shop that sells RC cars and also other tamiya products? the assistant there is not very helpful tho… =.=’
chubbybots
October 29, 2009
@ Jojo I did use before those that you can get from hardware stores/dept stores. Generally I find sand paper that I bought from those places are too rough even though they are of similar grit to the hobby ones. (My poor Gundam virtue) Ever since I only use those from hobby shops!
One tip to minimize scratches is to localized your sanding just around the nub area ^^. Don’t have to be like me and sand the whole piece (only for demo purpose)
@ Syful Ah unfriendly staff! Not good for business… I remember there was this assistant at this particular hobby shop that I used to go to prior to HAG….always sulking like hes a zombie…
jojosochi
October 30, 2009
Syful: Hi, you from brunei also? cool. yup i get my compound from Guan Hock Lee. but they don’t have coarse and fine type, just like Marzz mention in the previous comment.
Chubbybots: I have no choice then, will get the tamiya sand paper and the compound like yours. Thanks man cheers =D
chubbybots
October 30, 2009
Actually Syful is meeting up with me in Singapore ^^. Maybe can ask him buy for you the compound and sandpaper
Syful
October 30, 2009
hahah of course I can buy it for you, cash up front 1st, I’m also on a tight budget LoL
Syful
October 30, 2009
as for the tamiya sand paper, those things are the ones we dont have here in Brunei, no matter how hard you look into any hardware store around here, that abrasive paper is very rare… how much is it?
you know what jojo? since gundam sales is booming in Brunei… why don’t we sell the equipment? LoL just an idea tho
Evangelisque
November 1, 2009
Been meaning to ask, but I kept forgetting ahaha. Do you think 2 tubes of each compound will be enough to last me through 1 HG, 2 MGs and 1 PG? Or should I get three just in case? Planning to take a long break from gunpla after 4 kits, so I don’t want to end up with too many leftover supplies. xD
chubbybots
November 1, 2009
Haha its okay ^^. Actually my personal opinion is one of each will do. I don’t use compound for all the parts. Only those that I find even after shaving with an art knife, the nub is too obvious then only will I use the compound. Plus the time it takes to polish every single nub mark, even for myself I won’t have the patience to do that
Evangelisque
November 1, 2009
Yeah, that makes sense…thanks!!
ren
November 15, 2009
chubbybots!!! one question! nobody ask.. so i ask.. haha. wad kind of cloth did you used to buff the kit?? ^^ im tempted to get these two tubes alr..
chubbybots
November 15, 2009
Haha just shoot ^^. I use the humble spectacle cloth
Cheap and good (In fact this was from an old spectacle of my brothers just grab and use haha!!)
masta195
November 25, 2009
so professional to me! thanks for the tips!
chubbybots
November 26, 2009
Haha thanks ^^ I am not a professional
There lots of others out there way better than me!
avg.joe
November 26, 2009
hi chubby
extremely nice post here….just a quick question…since the compound is white….how come it turns out red when you apply on it ?
chubbybots
November 26, 2009
the compound itself contains rough particles which actually grinds the surface smooth. So the slight red that you see is due to the micro particles (Damn feels like teaching science!! lol) Gradually as you rub it will turn transparent
(Now this I don’t know why!!)
tattie bogle
January 1, 2010
hi was wondering if you have ever used Tamiya files and if so are they any good?
chubbybots
January 1, 2010
Ah no I have never used files before though. But this guy actually used a nail file and it does a good job ^^
http://gunplaaddict.blogspot.com/2009/12/nubs-removal.html
Cheers
tattie bogle
January 2, 2010
nice one thanks!
chubbybots
January 2, 2010
haha sure thing no problem
Seiei
January 3, 2010
nice info…
btw, any other way rather than this???
chubbybots
January 3, 2010
You can use a hobby knife and slowly trim away the nub. ^^ But have to be very careful not to gorge out the plastic!!
Seiei
January 4, 2010
well…many people told me… i think i use both compound and modelling knife…thx..
random_guy:)
January 8, 2010
what kind/brand of polishing compond did u use?
chubbybots
January 8, 2010
Oh this is Tamiya course (red) and fine (blue) compound
hskis
March 2, 2010
can u get rid of seam lines using this method too?
like sanding the seam line, then using the polishing compound, instead of painting,
chubbybots
March 2, 2010
Ah yes you can ^^ I used it here for my arios
http://chubbybots.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/arios-gundam-gnhwm-wip-phase-1/
Hope it helps. Happy building
hskis
March 3, 2010
ahah thanx , gunna try out these tips XD i’m new to gunpla
so thanx again for the tutorials 
chubbybots
March 4, 2010
No problem
Glad to be of help!
shadow
April 8, 2010
can i use grit 240 sandpaper then use the coarse compound?
chubbybots
April 8, 2010
Ah won’t work that way ^^. You need to sand it till at least 1000 girt. 240 grit will still be too rough for the compound to work!
shadow
April 10, 2010
kk thx i think i fix everything first then sand it
Deus
April 11, 2010
Hey, do you ever heard about Tamiya Polishing Compound Finish?
Is it a must to use that 2 combo of compound if in the end i flat topcoat my kit? ’cause my budget is very limited >,<
chubbybots
April 11, 2010
Ah that finishing compound is used after using these 2 compounds at the last step. Its best to use these 2 compounds cos top coat doesn’t hide the scratches. you can still see them. Anyway I only use those on nubs which out in plain sight. I don’t use it for all the nubs. Will kill both my hands and my wallet if i were to do so ^^.
shadow
April 11, 2010
and u then sanding is wet or dry?
chubbybots
April 12, 2010
dry man….
Syful
April 12, 2010
i think as for plamo (plastic model) you can do dry sanding, I never heard of wet sanding on them…
chubbybots
April 12, 2010
Actually wet sanding is another way to sand but it helps in reducing the scratches ^^.
http://dc23-mecharts.blogspot.com/2009/12/mg-acguy-ver-dc23-wip-part-iii.html
shadow
April 12, 2010
hey after u polish ,do u still any scratches frm ur kit??
chubbybots
April 12, 2010
Nope.
shadow
April 13, 2010
oh cause some of my part still have scratches
chubbybots
April 13, 2010
usually after the flat coat they won’t be so visible already ^^