Hi there, if you are at this page I hope you find something useful for you. Basically I’ll share what I know right down from the basics till the erh.. not so basics ^^. I am still learning and I’ll add anything that comes along the way that might be useful. Happy building!

37 thoughts on “Guides

    • You can check out, he has a picture of the 1/100 ng strike freedom attached to the base. He actually used another connector instead of the default ones that come with action bases.

      Hopefully this helps ^^

    • for panel lining I use sakura micron pens black and the real touch gundam markers. You can check out my MG Exia’s work in progress for the pictures of the pens.
      As for painting I use gundam markers but mainly on small parts, this one I did for my HGUC FA 3 Gundam ^^. Hope it helps

  1. I’ve heard window/glass cleaners takes acrylic paint right off but I would like to ask if you have any experience with the local brands like Fairprice and Kiwi Kleen brands.

    • Unfortunately I do not have experience with regards to this hmm…..I’ll do some test and let know you over this weekend ^^. This could be a good way to remove acrylic paints instead of using the hobby thinner! (Will save a lot of cash$$$)

  2. Precisely. I could clean off the acrylic paints on some parts easily but it involves quite alot of thinner and cotton buds. Not every efficient, cost and time wise. ^^;

    My main reason though, is because I screwed up painting the split horn of my unicorn and the underside is a mix of red and yellow. Not very appealing and no amount of rubbing with thinner can get those fine smudges off.

    My only fear now is that the glass cleaner would eat away the plastic entirely. Hence I’m seeking a 2nd local opinion. I might try some tests on my own and see how that goes.

    • Hmm you can use high grit sandpaper and lightly sand the area to get rid of the plastic ^^ I use grits 1000 to 1500 for these kinds of smudges. Hope that helps πŸ˜€

  3. Hmm. That’s a good suggestion. I did consider the sandpaper route..but was thinking on the wrong scale with 400-600 grit. ^^;; Thanks for the enlightment. πŸ˜€

  4. Tested out the Fairprice glass cleaner just now. Takes acrylic paint right off given enough time but the smell is enough for me to recommend using it in a well ventilated area.

  5. No more than 10mins is my guess for the more stubborn objects that was cleaned. Took a few mins to clean the gunmetal off of my Kampfer’s shotgun but the gunmetal fog up the liquid immediately after. Seems like there is a saturation limit as with water. Can’t clean anymore when it’s fully saturated, much like water. ^^;

    Tested the clear pieces off of my Astrea and it took longer since god knows how many layers of clear green i applied back then. Still, the pieces are speckless now. πŸ˜€

    • Nice now we have a new paint remover! Seems like metallic colors are much harder to remove. Thanks for taking your time to do this experiment ^^. Will definitely write one article on this πŸ˜€

    • Ah ghostofzeon. I also remembered reading his site for seam removal ^^. Very useful site when I first started out gunpla. Man your astrea must be pretty green at the middle with that thick orb πŸ˜€ So what color will you be repainting with ? ^^

  6. Repainted today. Silver beneath and clear green on top does give a nicer effect than clear green on both sides. Going to try silver and clear red on the unicorn’s frame tmr.

    Though I have to say the glass cleaner failed to take off the stains on the unicorn’s horns. The remaining stains are really minute so I guess that can’t be helped. ^^;

    • Nice! If I am not mistaken, you can use the polishing compound to get the stains off πŸ˜€ I remember after cleaning up my clear parts I also had the same problem. You are currently reworking your astrea right? Would love to the see the completed kit!

  7. i know there is a water slide type and the other one that you can dab it on (danny choo’s example) but what about those stickers? how can I stick it on without making it look like a sticker? I’ve heard of Mr.Mark setter and softer, those damn sticker still gives me the annoyance of failure. I’ve seen Kawaguchi’s sensei tip, but that’s just it, it doesn’t give enough tutorial on how to do it right… GAHH!! I’m at my wits end here.. =.=’

    • Hmm there are 3 types. The normal stickers, the green background stickers and the blue water slide stickers. As for the green one just use an art knife and cut out the shape of the sticker and then paste πŸ˜€ In fact the decals I used on my MG Exia are those green ones ^^ It will help to lessen the edges. And also dip those green decals in water before you stick onto the surface. Dipping will help to soften the decal and then helps it to cling to the surface better. Then just soak the excess with a tissue or something. After that spam top coat!! Hope that helps dude ^^ And fyi mark setter and softer will only work on the water slide decal.

  8. dip in water again eh… oh yeah.. we lack top coat around here… there’s only 2 stores that sells tamiya top coat and they’re out of stock…

  9. once in a blue moon… =.=’ i kept asking and they keep saying the same thing… soon soon soon… gahh… I need to make my own shop then…

  10. Pingback: The Toy Room 2010 in review « The Toy Room

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